A Revolutionary Force in Fashion
In the often cyclical and trend-driven world of fashion, few brands have managed to achieve a status as enigmatic, revolutionary, and culturally significant as Comme des Garçons. Founded in Tokyo in 1969 by Rei Kawakubo, the brand has grown from an Commes De Garcon underground Japanese label to a globally recognized powerhouse. From the beginning, Comme des Garçons defied the conventions of beauty, femininity, and form, carving a singular path that would eventually lead it from the streets of Shibuya to the runways of Paris.
The story of Comme des Garçons is not just about a fashion label; it’s about an idea, a philosophy, and a vision that challenged norms and redefined aesthetics. Its journey is one of resilience, innovation, and the relentless pursuit of authenticity.
The Beginnings in Tokyo
Rei Kawakubo did not come from a traditional design background. She studied fine arts and literature at Keio University in Tokyo and initially worked in advertising. However, her interest in clothing as a means of expression led her to establish Comme des Garçons in 1969. The name, which translates to "like the boys" in French, hinted at her early desire to subvert gender norms and challenge societal expectations.
By the early 1970s, Comme des Garçons had developed a cult following in Japan. Kawakubo's creations—characterized by asymmetry, deconstruction, and a monochromatic palette—stood in stark contrast to the polished and ornamental styles that dominated the era. She opened her first boutique in Tokyo in 1975, and just five years later, launched a men’s line, expanding her influence and vision even further.
Breaking into the West: The Paris Debut
The international fashion world took notice when Comme des Garçons made its debut in Paris in 1981. The collection was met with shock, confusion, and, ultimately, acclaim. With its torn fabrics, muted colors, and irregular silhouettes, it defied the high-glamour sensibilities of Parisian fashion. Critics dubbed the aesthetic "Hiroshima chic," a reference to the somber, deconstructed feel of the garments. However, for many, it was clear that something new had arrived—a shift in the tectonics of style.
While many in the audience didn’t know what to make of Kawakubo’s vision, others immediately recognized the significance. Comme des Garçons was not simply offering a new line of clothes; it was challenging the very definition of fashion. Instead of conforming to the body, the garments often distorted or obscured it. Instead of celebrating traditional beauty, they explored themes of imperfection, decay, and ambiguity.
The Power of Anti-Fashion
Comme des Garçons became synonymous with the concept of anti-fashion. But this was not rebellion for the sake of rebellion. For Kawakubo, clothing was a tool for critical thought. Her collections often explored abstract themes—identity, gender, void, space, and even death. She treated fabric like sculpture, creating shapes that resisted commercial appeal but drew admiration for their artistic merit.
Over the years, Kawakubo developed a reputation for intellectual rigor and conceptual depth. She rarely gave interviews and avoided media attention, allowing her work to speak for itself. Her refusal to adhere to fashion calendars or trends, and her willingness to challenge even her own audience, solidified her as a visionary. Comme des Garçons collections frequently presented garments that looked unfinished or disintegrating, drawing attention to the ephemerality of fashion and the constructed nature of beauty.
Business Brilliance and Brand Expansion
Despite its avant-garde roots, Comme des Garçons has been a remarkable business success. This is largely thanks to Kawakubo’s partner and husband, Adrian Joffe, who has helped manage and expand the company without diluting its core values. Under their joint leadership, Comme des Garçons has grown into a multi-million-dollar empire with various diffusion lines, including Comme des Garçons Homme, Comme des Garçons Play, and Comme des Garçons Shirt.
One of the most commercially successful and globally recognized sub-labels is Comme des Garçons Play, known for its iconic heart-with-eyes logo designed by Polish artist Filip Pagowski. The line maintains the brand’s minimalist ethos while being more accessible and wearable, thus introducing a new generation to the Comme des Garçons universe.
In addition to clothing, the brand has launched a line of perfumes under the same radical philosophy. Comme des Garçons Parfums, founded in 1994, offered scents that were as unorthodox as their clothing—featuring notes like tar, ink, and garage. These products, like the clothing, weren’t meant to appeal to everyone. They were meant to make you feel and think differently.
Dover Street Market: A New Retail Experience
Another landmark in the brand’s expansion was the launch of Dover Street Market in London in 2004. This concept store, curated by Kawakubo and Joffe, revolutionized the retail experience. Far from a traditional boutique, it was a dynamic, ever-changing space that merged fashion, art, and culture. The idea was to showcase Comme des Garçons alongside other avant-garde and luxury designers in a curated, collaborative environment.
Dover Street Market has since opened in cities like Tokyo, New York, Los Angeles, and Beijing, becoming a hub for innovation and experimentation. The stores reflect the brand’s ethos of deconstruction and reassembly, often featuring industrial materials, raw edges, and an unapologetically chaotic aesthetic. These spaces have become pilgrimage sites for fashion enthusiasts seeking a deeper connection with design and creativity.
Lasting Influence and Legacy
More than five decades after its founding, Comme des Garçons continues to be one of the most influential forces in fashion. Designers such as Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela, and even mainstream labels like Vetements and Balenciaga have drawn from Kawakubo’s playbook—emphasizing subversion, distortion, and provocation.
What makes Comme des Garçons truly timeless is its resistance to time itself. In an industry increasingly driven by trends, speed, and spectacle, Kawakubo remains dedicated to her craft and her vision. She continues to surprise the fashion world with collections that are unpredictable, sometimes even unsettling, yet always thoughtful and compelling.
Her work has been recognized beyond fashion circles. In 2017, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute honored her with a major exhibition titled Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between. It was only the second time the Met Comme Des Garcons Long Sleeve dedicated a solo show to a living designer—the first being Yves Saint Laurent.
A Continuing Journey
Comme des Garçons is not just a brand; it’s a continuous conversation. It asks questions without necessarily answering them. It invites both discomfort and admiration. It demands attention but not applause. Through Rei Kawakubo’s unwavering commitment to authenticity and innovation, Comme des Garçons has grown from an underground Tokyo experiment to a global cultural force.
As fashion continues to evolve in the digital age, it’s unclear where the industry will go next. But one thing is certain: Comme des Garçons will continue to lead not by following, but by challenging the very premise of what fashion can and should be.